I took a water taxi across the Brunei River to Kampong Ayer on a Tuesday afternoon and spent the next three hours walking boardwalks between stilt houses, eating kuih at a corner shop that had no sign, and watching the Istana Nurul Iman catch the last of the sun from a jetty I had entirely to myself.
The water taxi costs one Brunei dollar. The crossing takes less than two minutes. And on the other side is a settlement that has been continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years, built entirely on stilts above the Brunei River, with its own schools, mosques, fire stations, and police posts linked by approximately 36 kilometres of wooden and concrete boardwalks.
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World’s Largest Historic Water Village
Kampong Ayer Brunei is the world’s largest water village. The name translates directly from Malay: kampung means village, ayer means water. It is a cluster of 42 contiguous stilt villages on both banks of the Brunei River in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital.
In 1521, when Ferdinand Magellan’s expedition sailed past, Venetian scholar Antonio Pigafetta described the settlement and gave it the nickname that has stayed ever since: the Venice of the East.
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The 2016 national census recorded 10,250 residents across six administrative districts or mukims, though broader estimates put the wider settlement’s population at around 30,000, roughly 10 percent of Brunei’s total.
Both figures point to the same reality: this is not a museum village or a tourism set piece. It is a living, functioning community in the centre of a national capital, and one of the most unusual places to spend an afternoon anywhere in Southeast Asia.
History of Kampong Ayer Brunei
According to archaeological and historical records, the site was first settled as early as the 8th century and formally founded in the 14th century. For most of Brunei’s history, Kampong Ayer was the country. The Sultanate of Brunei ruled from the water, and at the height of its power in the 15th and 16th centuries, the settlement functioned as a major trading port connecting China, India, and the Malay Archipelago.
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A century ago, half of Brunei’s entire Malay population lived at Kampong Ayer. Many of the original timber houses have since fallen into disrepair, and the Brunei government has steadily introduced new concrete-and-wood residences on reinforced plinths alongside the older structures.
Electricity, air conditioning, satellite television, and WiFi are all available. Many residents commute by car to offices on land, though water taxis remain the primary way to move within the settlement itself.
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In February 2025, a strategic foresight report titled “Vibrant and Green: Kampong Ayer Beyond 2040” outlined sustainable development pathways for the village through 2040 and beyond, including green technologies like solar panels and urban farming.
In November 2024, over 140 volunteers participated in a clean-up effort that removed more than 1.3 tonnes of rubbish from the river, highlighting one of the settlement’s most pressing ongoing challenges: waste management.
7 Best Things to Do at Kampong Ayer Brunei
Walk the Boardwalk Network
Thirty-six kilometres of wooden and concrete boardwalks connect the 42 villages of Kampong Ayer, running between houses, around mosques, past schools, and over open stretches of river. Walking the boardwalks is the best way to see daily life up close. Houses range from weathered timber structures built decades ago to newer government-funded residences with modern facades.
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Watch your footing. Some planks on older sections are damaged or missing, and the wood can be slippery after rain. Sturdy closed-toe shoes are a better choice than sandals.
Take a Water Taxi Across the Brunei River
The most direct way into Kampong Ayer is by water taxi from the main jetty on the riverbank opposite the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping complex in central Bandar Seri Begawan.
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The ride costs B$1 (approximately US$0.75) and takes under two minutes. No booking is needed. Water taxis run continuously throughout the day, and drivers will drop you at any jetty within the village network.
For a longer tour, negotiate a rate with a boatman for a 30 to 45-minute river cruise through the settlement.
Visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery
This gallery offers an overview of the settlement’s history, its role in Brunei’s national identity, and the daily routines of its residents.
Exhibits cover traditional fishing techniques, boat-building, and the evolution of stilt-house architecture over the centuries. The building also has an observation tower with a panoramic view across Kampong Ayer and the Brunei River. Entry is free.
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See Istana Nurul Iman from the Water
The Istana Nurul Iman, the official residence of the Sultan of Brunei, is visible from the southern stretches of Kampong Ayer. It holds the Guinness World Record as the largest residential palace on earth: 200,000 square metres of floor space, 1,788 rooms, 257 bathrooms, and a banquet hall that seats 5,000.
Designed by Filipino architect Leandro Locsin and completed in 1984, the palace is closed to the public except during the three-day Hari Raya Aidilfitri open house each year. From the water, you get one of the best unobstructed views of the building’s gold domes and vaulted roofline.
Explore the Mangrove Jungle and Spot Proboscis Monkeys
Boat tours from Kampong Ayer extend into the mangrove jungle along the Brunei River, where you can see proboscis monkeys, monitor lizards, and estuarine crocodiles. Proboscis monkeys are endemic to Borneo and are classified as Endangered by the IUCN. The best time for sightings is late afternoon, when troops come down to the riverbank to feed.
Most water taxi drivers can arrange a mangrove tour on the spot, or you can book through a local tour operator in Bandar Seri Begawan.
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Eat at a Local Village Stall
Small food stalls and corner shops sell snacks, kuih (traditional cakes), drinks, and basic meals within the village.
These are not tourist restaurants with menus and signage. They are community shops that serve residents. Ask a local or your water taxi driver to point you in the right direction. Come with cash in small denominations.
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Stay Overnight at a Homestay
Several families in Kampong Ayer run homestays for visitors. An overnight stay gives you access to the settlement after the day-trippers have left: the stillness of the river at night, the call to prayer echoing off the water at dawn, and breakfast with a host family.
Homestays can be arranged through the Brunei Tourism Board or through local tour operators. Availability is limited, so book ahead.
How to Get to Kampong Ayer Brunei
Kampong Ayer is in the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan, directly across the Brunei River from the city’s main commercial district. The main water taxi jetty is on the riverbank opposite the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping complex. Additional jetties line the riverbank on both sides.
Water taxis cost B$1 per person per crossing. No advance booking is needed. Taxis run from early morning to late evening.
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From the Brunei International Airport, Bandar Seri Begawan’s city centre is approximately 15 minutes by car. From there, the jetty is a short walk.
Travel Tips for Visiting Kampong Ayer Brunei
- Dress Code: Kampong Ayer is a Muslim community. Dress modestly: cover shoulders and knees. This applies to both men and women. Avoid swimwear or revealing clothing.
- Footwear: Closed-toe shoes with grip. The boardwalks are wooden and concrete, some sections are damaged, and surfaces get slippery in the rain.
- Cash: Bring small denominations of Brunei dollars. Most stalls and water taxis do not accept cards. Singapore dollars are accepted at par throughout Brunei.
- Timing: Early morning or late afternoon offers the best light for photography and the most activity in the village. Midday heat can be intense. If you want to combine a mangrove tour with a village walk, start in the late afternoon and finish at sunset.
- Respect: You are walking through people’s homes and daily routines, not a theme park. Ask before photographing residents. Keep noise down. Do not enter mosques unless invited.
Frequently Asked Questions About Kampong Ayer Brunei
What Is Kampong Ayer?
Kampong Ayer is the world’s largest water village, a cluster of 42 stilt villages built on both banks of the Brunei River in the centre of Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei’s capital. It has been continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years. The name means “water village” in Malay.
How Many People Live in Kampong Ayer?
The 2016 national census recorded 10,250 residents across six administrative districts. Broader estimates from international travel sources including Lonely Planet and Atlas Obscura put the wider population at approximately 30,000, or about 10 percent of Brunei’s total population.
Is Kampong Ayer Safe to Visit?
Yes. Brunei is one of the safest countries in Southeast Asia, and Kampong Ayer is a residential community, not a tourist zone. Normal precautions apply: watch your step on the boardwalks, keep valuables secure on the water taxi, and be respectful of residents.
How Much Does It Cost to Visit Kampong Ayer?
The water taxi crossing costs B$1 (approximately US$0.75). The Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery is free. A longer river cruise or mangrove tour can be negotiated with a boatman for approximately B$20 to B$40 depending on duration and group size.
Can You Eat at Kampong Ayer?
Yes. Small food stalls and corner shops within the village sell snacks, kuih, drinks, and basic meals. These are not tourist-facing restaurants. Come with cash in small denominations and ask a local or your water taxi driver for direction.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Kampong Ayer?
Late afternoon is ideal. The light is softer, the heat is less intense, residents are returning from work, and the timing sets you up for sunset over the Brunei River. If combining with a mangrove tour for proboscis monkey sightings, late afternoon is also the best window.
Can You Stay Overnight at Kampong Ayer?
Yes. Several families run homestays. Book through the Brunei Tourism Board or a local tour operator. Availability is limited and advance booking is recommended.
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