Bajau Laut: Sea Gypsies of Pulau Mabul, Sabah

Once a pristine paradise untouched by the outside world, Pulau Mabul and its neighbouring islands were a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. However, the winds of change swept across the island as the development of eco-tourism began to take shape before 1980.

While progress brought with it new opportunities, it also marked the end of an era for a place that was once unspoiled and untouched. Nonetheless, visitors can still revel in the natural beauty of the islands and enjoy the unique experiences that eco-tourism has to offer.


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Bajau Laut: Sea Gypsies of Pulau Mabul, Sabah

History of Bajau Laut

The islands were once inhabited solely by the small, dispersed Bajau and Suluk families - also known as the Sea Gypsies. These ethnic groups are “stateless” people - moving from islands to islands between Malaysia, Indonesia and Philippines (and they still do today) as they are not afforded a citizenship status by any of the countries. Due to this, they reside freely but only on the waters of the Celebes Sea and Sulu Sea either on boats or houses skilfully built on stilts.

As their welfare is not being taken care of by any party, they continue to live unmoored and adrift with zero access to formal education and without a national identity or even birth certificates. The Sea Gypsies are just a very small fraction of the estimated 12 million stateless people around the world today.

sea gypsies in Sabah Malaysia
A Bajau Laut child
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The Bajau Laut lives on the waters of the Celebes Sea and Sulu Sea either on boats or houses skillfully built on stilts.
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Bajau Laut: The Sea Gypsies of Pulau Mabul, Sabah in Borneo Malaysia
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Bajau Laut: The Sea Gypsies of Sabah
sea gypsies in Sabah Malaysia
Bajau Laut: Young mother and her son
Bajau Laut or Sea Gypsies of Sabah borneo
Bajau Laut: The Sea Gypsies of Sabah
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Houses built on stilt over the sea where the Sea Gypsies live
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The Bajau Laut lives on the waters of the Celebes Sea and Sulu Sea either on boats or houses skillfully built on stilts.

Bajau Laut Sabah

The Bajau Laut tribes of Sabah are fondly called the Sea Gypsies thanks to their nomadic and seafaring lifestyle. They are one of the few communities on earth with a profound bond with the ocean, spending almost their entire lives at sea and rarely setting foot on land. They have roamed the Coral Triangle for decades, constantly moving about the waters of Malaysia, Philippines and Indonesia where resources are rich and plenty.

Lucky visitors traveling to this part of the world may still see the Sea Gypsies living in wooden houseboats or stilt huts carefully built the coral reefs - making this an attraction not to be missed. Today, it is estimated that there are 3,000 Sea Gypsies left in Borneo.

Sea Gypsies are exceptional divers. They have mastered free diving in order to make a living out of hunting for sea cucumbers, lobsters and other marine life that can be sold to the locals as food. They are capable of  holding their breath and free diving to depths of over 20 meters without assistance. The ocean bears their resources, and they have been making a living out of it for centuries.

Bajau Laut of Sabah
A Bajau Laut fisherman returned from the sea to sell his catch
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Beautiful crabs caught by the fisherman

Transition from Bajau Laut to Bajau Darat

Due to development, many Sea Gypsies have now made the Semporna islands of Sabah their home, namely Mabul, Sibuan, Mantabuan, Selakan, Omadal, Bohey Dulang and Maiga. Those who have made this permanent transition have evolved to become the Bajau Darat.

Several small-scale areas on selected Malaysian islands have been allocated for native settlement with the help from local NGOs and affluent communities. Pulau Mabul, in particular, has two main villages including Kampung Mabul and Kampung Musu that were handed out for the occupation of the nomadic tribes from the nearby island clusters including Bajau Laut and the Suluk Muslims.

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Bajau Laut of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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The Bajau people staying in Kampung Mabul and Kampung Musu of Pulau Mabul
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Bajau Laut father and son at Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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A young Bajau Laut boy of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
Bajau Darat of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
A Bajau Laut family at Pulau Mabul, Sabah
Sea Gypsies of Sabah
Bajau Laut of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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Kampung Mabul during the day
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Grilled seafood at Kampung Mabul of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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Bajau children flying kites on the beach
Bajau Laut or Sea Gypsies of Sabah
Bajau Laut of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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Bajau and Suluk villagers mending a boat at Kampung Mabul, Sabah
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Beautiful Bajau Laut children of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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Bajau Laut of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
Bajau Laut or Sea Gypsies of Sabah
Once Sea Gypsies, they have evolved to staying on land for survival and residence
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Bajau Laut children of Pulau Mabul, Sabah
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An elderly woman of the Bajau Laut tribe at Pulau Mabul, Sabah

Semporna islands such as Pulau Mabul may have gained popularity as a gateway for world-class diving, but the top attraction here remains to be the beautiful, mysterious and dexterous Bajau Laut or Sea Gypsies. Always pay your respect to the indigenous people when you step on their soil.

How to Get to Mabul Island

From Kuala Lumpur (or anywhere you are from), take a flight to the Tawau Airport (TWU). Almost every resort on Pulau Mabul offers a free transfer from Tawau to Semporna (which is located about an hour and a half away or approximately 90 kilometres) where you will then hop onto the resort speed boat in order to arrive at Pulau Mabul.
  1. From Kuala Lumpur, take a flight to the Tawau Airport.
  2. From Tawau, find your way to Semporna by hiring a private transfer, taking a mini bus or taking the free transfer provided by your resort.
  3. Once you have arrived at the Semporna Jetty, take the speed boat (provided by your resort) or a ferry to get to Pulau Mabul.

Remember to call your resort prior to your arrival in Sabah to arrange the pickup time!

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Comments

  1. Mabul island has long been on my bucket list. Aside from its beautiful landscape, it must be fascinating to see the lifestyle of the Bajau Laut.

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  2. I have been to the inner village of Sabah, life is peaceful and people are very friendly.

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  3. I selalu tengok orag post pasl bajau ni. Cara diaorg live adventure. Kecik2 dh pandai naik sampan semua. Sekrg dekat snaa tengah susah kan. Tapi cantik laut dia

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  4. I have a planned trip to visit Mabul Island last October but maybe the time is not right yet.. Would love to experience their lifestyle while visiting Mabul next time and I love Bohay Dulang, I have included in my itinerary as "PLACE MUST VISIT" :)The view was superb right?

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  5. Kawan Sis kan ada family angkat di Mabul ni, selalu juga dia ke sana, then dia cakap, mereka memang macamtu dr segi pemakaian dan gaya hidup, tapi mereka makan yang berkhasiat dan semua seafood kan.. mereka tangkap dan masak...cuma rezeki bergantung pada cuaca laut.. tu kawan Sis laa bagitau.. teringin juga nak ke Mabul Island ni..

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  6. The pics so nice.. never been to mabul. I wish one day can come here, to see the beautiful creatures

    ReplyDelete

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